At a quarter past one,
The drive to
From there we walked into the island house. A glass tank full of cockroaches brought suitable groans of disgust from everyone. In a big cage nearby, a monitor, probably five or six feet long from snout to tip, was attempting to climb a tree much too small for it. The tree, one of the rather wimpy office variety, was bending drearily under the big lizard’s weight while the lizard rather stupidly flailed its enormous splayed claws. Outside, Galapagos tortoises sat with all four legs splayed in the shade, their heads retracted under their monstrous shells. We walked down behind the pachyderm house and laughed at the rhinos, some of which were outside, wallowing in a mud pit.
We walked up a short hill, past an expansive shady enclosure housing five different kinds of deer, as Kady pointed out. Around this enclosure, near the top of the hill, was another shady enclosure housing three or four beautiful velvety okapis, and beyond that was another broad expanse of grass, this time nearly treeless, where giraffes, ostriches, and zebras stood motionless in the heat. Behind us, an okapi gave a strange, donkey-like cry; before us, an ostrich, blind in one eye and trailing its huge frayed wings like the fringes of an old feather duster, was herded toward the giraffe building by a keeper. Further down the hill, we came to more big fenced enclosures. In one of these was a wild ass, which, as soon as it saw us, started to produce the most ridiculous donkey bray I’ve ever heard. It trotted down the fenceline as we walked beside it, braying the whole time and sticking its head between the wires of the fence. When Logan, Laura, Tanner, Stephen, and Kady started to run back up the fenceline, it cantered beside them, braying enthusiastically. A keeper drove past in a golf cart, and the ass ran beside the golf cart; when the keeper reversed the cart back down the hill, the ass ran beside it. It was hilariously funny. The ridiculous creature made the whole zoo echo with its frantically friendly braying.
We also visited maned wolves and a cheetah and another broad sunny space for kangaroos. It was incredibly hot. Whenever we came to a water fountain, Laura and Kady would start to splash each other. There were also faucets mounted on tall poles at intervals along the sidewalk; the faucets put out a musty-smelling mist when a button as pushed. It was funny to watch Tanner, Laura, Kady, and Stephen playing with the mist until their hair and eyebrows were beaded with tiny white drops like frost.
From the top of the hill, we came to the primate area. Chimpanzees were sitting outside. In the primate house, we watched four or five silverback gorillas, which had just been fed. The youngest of the bunch was an incorrigible showoff: it scrambled to the top of the telephone poles in the enclosure, slid down a length of old fire hose, rapped its knuckles against the glass after it had seen Mr. West do so, and ran round the cage smacking the older gorillas with its big wrinkled hands.
The next big exhibit was a new one, made up of native
Back outside, we walked on a bridge above an enclosure housing a badger, which was running in circles; above it on the hill were prairie dogs and bison. A big waterfall splashed over rocks in the enclosure of two gigantic brown bears. The red early evening sunshine was slanting warmly over the red earth as we entered another building, this one housing fish, snakes, amphibians, and, at some point in the near future, beavers, otters, and alligator snapping turtles. It was relaxing to sit in the cool air conditioning, watching the enormous streamlined shapes of catfish, perch, and guar sliding through green water. Back outside, we walked down the hill, pausing to admire a bald eagle on a perch. The last enclosure housed four or five
From this area, we strolled down the hill further, and came out of the thick trees that had clothed the lower slopes of the hill onto the margin of the lake. To our left were the old bear pits, cut into the side of the hill, with trees growing above them; to our right the blue expanse of water stretched warm in the sunshine. Paddleboats shaped like swans bobbed at a quay. The old bear pits now house a variety of animals, from a colony of fat (but alert) meerkats to a giant anteater, pacing in a figure eight, its elongated snout and fan tail reminding me respectively of a caricature artist’s attempts and the plating of a baleen whale. “God is amazing,” breathed Mr. West as he half-laughed at the anteater. We walked past the butterfly garden, late sun glancing off the petals of snow-on-the-mountain and black-eyed susans. Our last stop was the aquarium, but it turned out to be rather disappointing. The huge tank that usually holds seals and sea lions had only one lonely seal swimming in it, occasionally poking its sleek dappled head above the clear water. We walked down past the eerily empty dolphin tank into the aquarium area under the auditorium, and looked at tanks of fluorescent coral reef fish, African lungfish, four-eyed fish, stonefish, and other oddities.
Wearily, we climbed the hill to the gate again. We said good-byes in the scorching evening heat of the car park. As we climbed into
